An ocean wave transformation model for shallow waters

Abstract

In this paper a coastal wave transformation model is presented. The implementation of different wave theories and the terms for refraction, shoaling, bottom friction, percolation, viscous dissipation and wave breaking are described. A few trial runs of the model have been made with various deep water wave characteristics. The change in characteristics of a shoreward propagating wave is as expected. A comparative study of model derived wave heights with satellite altimeter wave heights is also done. It is found that model derived wave heights follow the same trend as altimeter wave heights, and thus confirms the validity of the model for estimation of shallow water wave heights.